|
Recommends... Clear Creek Canyon Colorado - C.C.C. is a great quick weekend climbing getaway, but there aren't many good guidebooks. Amazon gives strange availability info on this one, but it's worth a try. |
Clear Ck. Cyn. Climb
|
|
| Summary | Image Gallery | Guidebook
|
|
Click Here
| Click here
| |
Phil and Lisa Ensign graciously offered to take me on my first outdoor climb. Our destination was the sport climbing area called "High Wire Crag", about five miles west of Golden on U.S. 6. After parking east of Tunnel #2, we hiked along the road and made a short class 3 scramble to reach the main rocks, which are very solid Gneisses. Most bolts were placed by Richard Wright in 1997.
Before long, Phil and Lisa's friend Mike arrived. Mike is a retired Navy F-14 pilot, and his physique at 50 years old speaks volumes of good old fashioned military discipline. The day was hot and clear, in stark contrast to the early day storminess that I had experienced for the past three weeks.
Phil led 5.7 Stone Cold Moderate, set up a top rope for me, and cleaned his protection on the way down. The definite crux of the route is the first move--a jug haul that tested my strength. I climbed it easily and was soon back on the ground, my feet absolutely blistering in the late morning sun.
Our next climb was 5.9+ 5th of July. This pitch starts with the same jug haul as Stone Cold Moderate, but the fun has only just begun at that point. The next 30 feet required edging on crimpy but solid rock. The crux is about 40 feet up the 85-foot pitch. Footholds and handholds get sparse here, and I agree with the rating. Phil and Mike climbed easily. I had trouble on my first attempt. After about 4 falls on the crimpy lower part, I capitulated at the crux. On my second attempt, Phil was descending 5.10a Ace in the Hole while I was struggling at the crux again. He said, "Hey Morgan, there's a huge finger hold about 5 inches to the right." Sure enough, there was a monster that accomodated three fingers of my right hand, and within seconds I was past the crux. The remaining 40 feet of the climb were fun, simple stuff, say 5.6.
Pumped at my accomplishment (I had only climbed a couple 5.8's in the gym), I rested while Mike and Phil whipped 5.11c Officer Friendly. This area is still new, because I couldn't find it in the web guidebook. It is about 25 feet of 20-30 degree overhanging, with a tough ledge to overcome at the top. Mike led, and he moved with efficiency and speed. No problem! Phil powered the overhanging part with ease, even quicker than Mike, but he understandably had a bit of trouble blindly rooting around for the handholds above the ledge. Still, the climb was well within his ability.
We returned to the vicinity of Pony Up for a last pitch for me. A party was already on Pony Up, which is 5.8, so we climbed 5.9 Poker Face, right next door (route #2 in picture). Again, the first move was a real jug haul, and without a monster finger hole, I'd have been screwed. The remainder of the climb was a fun series of traverses along cracks dipping at 60 degrees, but it wasn't as nice as 5th of July.
I had a horrible blister on the back of my left foot, but all-in-all, it was
a very satisfying first day of outdoor climbing.
|
Department of Geophysics Stanford University |
|